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LIB RARY OF CONGR ESS. 
©i^pSS. inpijritjit !f n. 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



THK ARTS 



OF 



Culling ^^nJ Slioctii^^ C^rn 



AND OF 



EJuc^Iin^ ^nJ Bree^kin^ Hor5e5, 



'^'i"^rwASH'. 



W. N. ROBERTS, 
WINTERSVILLE, OHIO, ' ^^ 



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Logan, Ohio: 
JOURNAL PRINT. 



1894. 



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"Entered accordiag to Act ©f Congress, in the year 1294. 

BY W. N. ROBERTS, 
ia the office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington. 







CONTENTS. 



^ROBERTS' ART OF CUTTING & SHOCKING CORN. 

INTRODUCTION T-10 

General Description of Drawings lo 

A Full Description of Figure 1 ii 

Shocks Eight by Eight 11 

The Knife 12 

The Horse 13 

To Make a Horse Quickly 13 

Two Men Working Together 13 

If Left-Handed 14 

Shocks Eight by Ten 14 

Shocks Eight by Six , 15 

Shocks Twelve by Twelve, (Last Half of Page 15 With Fig. 3.). . . 16 

Shocks Twelve by Eight 15 

Shocks Twelve by Ten I7 

Shocks Twelve by Six IS 

Shocks Ten by Ten 18 

Shocks Ten by Six 19 

Shocks Fourteen by Fourteen 20-2.1 

Shocks Fourteen by Six 21 

Shocks Fourteen by Ten 21 

Shocks Fourteen by Twelve 22-23 

Shocks Fourteen by Four 23 

Shocks Fourteen by Eight 23 

Shocks Sixteen by Sixteen 24-25 

Shocks Sixteen by Four 25 

Shocks Sixteen by Eight 25 

Shocks Sixteen by Twelve 25 

Shocks Sixteen by Fourteen 26-27 

Shocks Sixteen by Six 27 

Shocks Sixteen by Ten 27 



ROBERTS' ART OF EDUCATING HORSES. 



CHAPTER I. 

The Horseman 29-31 

CHAPTER n. 

The Horse 31-33 

CHAPTER HI. 

How to Gain Control of the Horse 33-38 

To Bridle the Colt 34 

To Swing the Horse. 36 

To Hobble the Horse 37 

CHAPTER IV. 

How to Educate the Horse 38-48 

The word "Whoa" 39 

To Saddle the Colt 40 

Mounting the Colt 40 

To Harness the Colt 42 

To Hitch the Colt 43 

To Work the Colt 44 

To Teach the Colt to Back 44 

To Teach the Colt to Stand Tied 44 

To Break the Horse to the Single Line 45 

To Teach the; Horse to Walk Fast 46 

To Prepare the Horse to be Shod 47 

To Teach the Horse to Stand Without Being Tied 47 

To Rein the Colt 48 

CHAPTER V. 

Bad Habits— How Broken Up 49-58 

Bridle Breaking 49 

Rubbing the Bridle Off 49 . 

Not Letting the Bit Into the Mouth 50 

Restlessness While Being Mounted 50 

Restlessness While Getting Into the Carriage 5l 

Kicking 5l 

Balking. 53 

Running Off 54 

Disobedience of Single Line Leades 55 

Shying 56 . 

Not Allowing Themselves to be Caught in the Field 57 

To Teach the Horse to Lie Down , 58 



PREFACE. 

THE aim of this book is to set forth, in a brief but comprehensive 
manner, two arts, the result of the author's own experience 
and observation on the two Hnes which they take up. One of which 
arts is of interest to every man that raises or cuts corn; the other to 
every person that owns or handles a horse. They are the "Art of 
Cutting and Shocking Corn" and the "Art of Educating Horses." 

There is nothing so essential to success as system. It matters not 
what the work may be, he who understands what is to be done, and 
knows just how and when to do each part of that work, will do it not 
only with pleasure, but with a rapidity that will surprise him who works 
by no definite plan. That system increases the result of labor is 
recognized by our most successful business men. What enables Armour 
to buy our cattle and hogs, take them to Chicago, kill them and place 
the meat in our shops as cheap as our local butchers? It is the perfect 
system by which this work is done. Who of us do not know from 
experience, that if we know the evening before just what we want to 
do the next day, we will get a great deal more done, than if we went 
from our breakfast on that morning not knowing just what our work 
for the day was to be, nor where to begin. 

There is no profession or business in which system is more effectual 
than in farming; and in no work on the farm will system increase the 
result of labor more than in cutting corn. Corn cutting is generally 



ii PREFACE. 

considered hard, unpleasant work. The pleasure or displeasure, which 
we find in work, depends not so much on the work itself as upon the 
skill or rapidity with which we can do that work. 

We Hke to feel that we are accomplishing something. However light 
our work may be be, if we feel that it is tedious and we are not getting 
much done, we do not find much pleasure in it. But on the other hand 
however hard the work may be, if we can do that work quickly and 
skillfully we find pleasure in doing it. The more difficult the task the 
more pleasure we find in it, when we can do it with skill. Skill in any 
work takes away to a great extent the unpleasantness of that work. If 
our skill gives us a speed in doing that work which makes it but play for 
us to lead one, who formerly lead us, even when putting forth our best 
efforts, the work not only loses its unpleasantness, but we find in it a 
keen delight. The author can well remember when he looked upon corn 
cutting as a very unpleasant task. But when he had recognized the 
principles involved, and had formulated this system, which reduces corn 
cutting to an art, it was no longer an unpleasant task, but a delight. 

Some men have a system by which they work in cutting corn, and by 
these systems they are enabled to do, what seems to others, a wonderful 
days work. And these are the very men who gladly leave the old for 
the new as soon as they see that the new is superior. One man having 
a system by which he had and could cut 125 shocks ten hills square per 
day, came to the author saying: "If your system is better than mine, I 
want it; for the more corn I can cut the more money I can make." 
When he had examined the system herein set forth, he said; "Your 
system is superior to mine in many respects, and especially in drilled 
corn." 



PREFACE. iii 

The author has no hesitancy in saying that he can, by this system, 
cut one hundred shocks as easily as he formerly cut fifty. He is equally 
confident that there is not one man in fifty whom it will not enable to 
cut from a fourth to a half more corn than he has heretofore been able 
to do. 

We buy books expecting to get some benefit from them. This is well 
and good; men are made better and homes are made happier by good 
books. We buy machinery, a mower, binder or thresher, and think it a 
good investment if by the time they are worn out, they have kept up 
repairs, storage and paid for themselves, and made us 10 or 1 5 per cent, 
on our investment. If we could loan money so as to make 10 per cent, 
we would think we had a good investment. This art alone will enable a 
man to increase his wages so as- to -make for him for each two days he 
uses it, 100 per cent, on his investment for the entire work, including the 
" Art of Cutting and Shocking Corn and the Art of Educating Horses." 

As to the art of educating horses, nothing adds to the value of a good 
horse so much as a good education or training. He is useful only as he 
can be controlled by man. The horse that can be trusted at all times is 
much more valuable than the one which cannot be trusted. If the well 
broken horse is more valuable than the one that is not well broken, 
surely it is worth many times the difference in value between a well 
broken horse and one that is not well broken to a man, to be able to 
change the unhaltered colt to an educated horse in a few days, or what is 
more difficult still, to change the horse that cannot be trusted to one that 
can be trusted. When we say a few days we do not mean that in a few 
days, we will be able to work him as a colt but as a well broken horse. 

If men were more careful and more humane in their treatment of the 
horse, their most faithful servant, it would not only free the horse from 



iv PREFACE. 

a great deal of unnecessary suffering, but would also save the horseman 
from his greatest trials and dangers. Recognizing that a great deal of 
the suffering, which the horse is compelled to bear, and that most of the" 
trials and dangers of the horseman might be avoided by a proper hand- 
Hng of the horse, and that by such a handling man can become complete 
master of the horse; the author formulates this system which reduces the 
educating of the horse to an art. This system, while based on scientific 
principles, is backed by a successful experience in handling horses. 

True, there have been other writers on this subject, and their works 
have not been without merit. But where they have stopped 
we have gone on. Where they have failed, we have succeeded. 
Others advise you to sell a horse which you cannot mount with 
safety. We tell you how to mount such a horse within fifteen minutes 
without him moving out of his tracks. Others say that if a horse has 
run away once he will never be safe. We tell you how to work him with 
safety. That fault which has perhaps, baffled more horsemen than all 
others, balking, we successfully break up. By this system you can teach 
your colt that has never been haltered, to lead in a few minutes. You 
can teach him obedience to the word 'whoa' equally as quick. You can 
break him to the saddle or harness in a couple of hours. You can break 
your horse to the single line in half an hour. By this system bad habits 
are quickly and effectually overcome. Since this system will enable a 
man to do this, it in itself is worth many times the cost of the entire 
work, to anyone who handles a horse. 

This book has been written believing that it will enable him who is 
working for wages to increase them; that it will enable the man who cuts 
his own corn to do it quicker and easier; that it will relieve that noble 



PREFACE. V 

animal, the horse, of much suffering; and enable his master to work 

him with more pleasure, safety and profit. If it does this it will not have 

been written in vain. 

Trusting that this work may prove a blessing to all into whose hands 

it may fall, the author now sends it forth on its mission. 

The Author. 



ROBERTS' 

Jlvl of Culling ^^nJ S^io^tin^ Corn. 



INTRODUCTION. 

The object of " Roberts' Art of Cutting and Shocking Corn" is to 
lessen and facilitate the labor of cutting and shocking corn. This 
object is obtained: First — By dividing the corn to be put into each 
shock into equal sections or loads, such as, considering the strength of 
man, are best adapted to facilitate the labor. Second — Having these 
sections or loads so arranged as; (1st.) to maintain the equilibrium of 
the shock; (2nd.) to pass from one, by the shock, to the other with the 
least possible walking; (3d.) to be most conveniently cut and shocked 

Let us look for a moment at each of these. 

As to the first; a man has two tons of hay to haul; he can haul one ton at 

a load, but not twenty-five hundred without straining horses or wagon 

and he can make two trips per day. If he takes a full load each time he 

can haul the hay in one day. If, however, he only takes fourteen 

hundred the first trip he must make a third. This will require an extra 

half day, and he will spend a day and a half doing what he might have 

done in one day. So in cutting corn, if we make three trips after what 

7 



8 TIME SAVED BY THIS SYSTEM. 

we could readily carry at two, the third will take as long as either of the 
others, taking nearly a third longer to do the work, than if we only 
made the two trips. 

As to the second; tirst, if we have these sections so arranged, that we 
can work around the shock, we will maintain the equilibrium of the 
shock; and will not be troubled with it becoming twisted or falling 
down, and it will stand straighter until husked. Second, although we 
might walk only a few steps farther each load in passing from one 
section to the other, in a days work it would amount to a great deal. 
By this system all extra steps are avoided. Third, our position has a 
great deal to do with the ease and rapidity with which we can do work. 
A right handed man can cut off a hill of corn much easier and quicker if 
it stands to his right, and just a httle to his front, especially if he has a hill 
or two in his arm, than in any other position. A left-handed man can cut 
a hill easier and quicker if on his left and front. Also the distance we 
have to walk, will make a difference in the time it takes to cut a certain 
number of hills. If we are cutting a large shock as 8xl6 we will have 
sixteen hills in two rows, on one side of the shock. Now if we go to 
the end of each of these rows, and cut toward the shock, making a load 
of each row, we will, if the rows are four feet apart, walk in cutting 
these sixteen hills, 112 feet. But if we cut equal distances from and 
toward the shock we need not walk more than 80 feet, which makes a 
difference of 32 feet in cutting sixteen hills. Also we should have 
ground clear of stubbles to carry our corn over while cutting. This we 
can obtain by working between the rows from which we cut our load. 
When we have our load cut, if we have to cross two or three rows of 
stubbles, we can throw our load sort of back on our hip, letting the butts 



PRINCIPLES OF THE SYSTEM. 9 

of the stocks incline bacicwards, and carry it in without the stubble 
hindering much. 

So by following this system, we have our corn divided into that 
number of loads that will best facilitate our work. We get an equal 
number of hills on each side of the shock which makes a firm shock. 
We do the work with the least possible walking. We are always at the 
right hill at the right time, and in the best position to cut it easily and 
quickly. We have ground clear of stubbles to walk over while cutting. 

The fundamental principles of this system are these: 

First — Dividing the corn into equal sections. 

Second — Arranging these sections so as to be most conveniently cut 
and shocked. 

Third— Cutting equal distances from and toward the shock. 

Fourth — Working between the two rows from which your load is cut. 

Fifth — Always moving forward, keeping the corn to be cut on the 
right hand, it right-handed, but on the left if left-handed. 

This system is made clear by the following drawings, which show the 
horse; our position while making the horse; position of knife while 
making the horse, that we may always know just where to put our 
hand on it; the different sides of the horse; what part of the shock is 
cut at each load; on which side of the horse each load is placed; the 
entire path passed over while cutting the shock. 

On the following page we give you a thorough explanation of certain 
lines, dots, dashes, letters, etc,, we have used in our figures. A study 
of them will enable the reader to understand the diagrams which follow. 
We have prepared these diagrams in order that our system may be made 
the plainer to the reader, illustrations going with ^ach description. 



10 EXPLANATION OF FIGURES. 

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS. 
(See Fig. l, Page 11.) 

The dots, ( . . • • ) represent the hills of corn. 

"S" shows point of entering the corn. 

The diagonal lines (X) represents the horse. 

"Y" shows your position while making the horse. 

M, E3, C ^n<i D show the four sides of the horse. 

The figures 1, 2, 3, 4, etc., show the sections or loads in the order in 
which the}'^ are cut. 

The letters and figures written together, (Al, Bl, Cl, Dl, A2, etc.) 
show on which side of the horse the load is placed, and the number of 
loads it makes on that side^ 

The dashes ( — — — — ) show path from the shock to the 
sections. 

The full lines ( ) show path traveled while cutting 

the sections. 

The short dashes ( ) show path traveled in passing from 

the sections to the shock. 

The long dashes ( ) are used except in Figs. 1 and 2 to 

connect the short dashes and the dashes, which if prolonged would form 
an angle at the shock, but are "omitted to secure clearness in the 
drawings. 

A careful study of Fig. 1 will enable one to follow_any of.^the drawings 
through. Starting at Y, you can always tell whether you are right or 
not by noticing the number of the section; for they are cut in the order 
in which they are numbered. 



DESCRIPTION OF SHOCKS EIGHT BY EIGHT. 



11 



A FULL DESCRIPTION OF FIG. 1. 



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SHOCKS EIGHT BY EIGHT. 

Advance from S to Y. Having made the horse, advance to section 1, 
cut from the shock three hills, turn to the left and cut back four, as 
indicated by the full lines; leaving your load at B as indicated by Bl. 
Advancing from B to section 2, in the same two rows, cut forward from 
the shock four hills, turn to the left and cut back three hills, leaving 
your load at C as indicated by Cl. Advancing from C to section 3 cut 
from the shock three hills and back four, leaving your load at D as 
indicated by Dl. Advancing from D to section 4, cut from the shock 
four hills and back three leaving your load at A as indicated by At. We 
have now been around the shock once, and have seven hills on each of 
the four sides of it. Advancing now to section 5, leave the first hill, 



12 FOR DRILLED AS WELL AS HILLED CORN. 

cutting it as you pass to the shock (if the corn is drilled cut what would 
represent the first hill first), leave your load at B as indicated by B2. 
Advance to section 6, cutting forward four hills and back four leaving 
corn at C as indicated by C2. Sections 7 and 8 are cut hke 5 and 6 
respectively. 
The drawings are made representing the corn as in hills. But the 

system is as valuable in cutting drilled corn as it is in cutting hilled corn. 
In the drawings the sections contain eight hills, including the hills 
composing the horse. In good corn this makes about the right amount 
to carry at a load. Cutting shocks eight hills sometimes the corn is 
light enough to bring it in at four loads. Then cut l and 2 as one sec- 
tion; 3 and 4 as one; 5 and 6 as one, and 7 and 8 as one. 

In drilled corn you will not have the hills to go by, but you will have 
no trouble in determining how far you should cut forward before 
turning, after you have cut a few shocks. After a little practice you can 
cut the drilled corn nearly as fast as the hilled. A little practice in 
gathering and cutting several stalks at a single stroke will add to your 
speed surprisingly. You have the corn on your right. With a little 
practice you will have no trouble in gathering all that you can reach with 
your cutter. This you can cut at a single lick, with a sort of sweeping 
stroke back past your leg. If the corn is not too heavy you will have 
no trouble in cutting the corn on from three to four feet with a single 
stroke. 

i^s to the Knife. You should not try to cut corn v/ith a knife made 

from a scythe, but use the regular corn knife or cutter. It should not 
be too long. A blade sixteen inches is long enough for most men. 
Some perhaps could do better v/ith a longer one. Never let the edge of 
your knife touch the ground; but keep a good edge on it; this will save 
muscle. 



THE HORSE AND HOW TO MAKE IT. l3 

The Horse. Some prefer to use a wooden horse made as follows: Take 
a pole about fourteen feet long, about six feet from the small end put in 
two legs long e nough to raise the small end about two and a half or 
three feet from the ground. Two and a half feet from the small end bore 
a hole parallel with the plane of the ground, make a stick that will slide 
easily into this, forming a cross. Carry this into the corn placing the 
the cross where you want the shock. When you have cut the shock 
draw out the cross-piece, pick up your horse, drawing it out of the 
shock, and go on to the next. The advantage of this kind of a horse is 
you do not need to carry a cutter with you when husking. But on the 
other hand you have no support for your shock as where you make a 
horse from four hills. 

To Make a Horse QuicMy. Take your position at Y Fig. 1. Catch 
the two hills in the row to your left, thd farthest one from you with 
your right hand; bring it down under the one in your left hand; hold 
these with your left hand, place the hill farthest from you, in the row to 
your right under these; hold these with your left hand, place the fourth 
one under the third, holding all with the left hand, reach around with 
the right hand and bring the top of the fourth hill around the others 
to the hill at your left, down around this, up between the stalks and 
under an ear and you have a good firm horse. One you can make in 
less time than it takes to read this. 

Two man can work together, by this system, to as good advantage as 
one. If two work together let one tie the shock while the other makes 
the horse. Let each take a side. The one making the horse cutting 
sections 3, 4, 7, 8, while the one tying the shock beginning with 1, 9uts 
2, 5 and 6. Here it will be more convenient to stand on the side oppo- 
site to Y to make the horse. Working this way, as one places a load at 



14 



SHOCKS EIGHT BY TEN. 



D the other one places a load opposite at B, and the same with A and C. 
If left-handed work around the shock in the opposite direction. 
Standing at D to make the horse, begin with section 4 and cut the 
sections in this order: 4, 3, 2, l, 8, 7, 6, 5, placing section 4 at D, 3 at 
C, 2 at B, 1 at A, 8 at D, 7 at C, 6 at B, 5 at A. 

SHOCKS EIGHT BY TEN AND EIGHT BY SIX. 






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Read description of Fig. 1, page 11. In cutting a shock eight by ten 
we follow the same principles, but begin on a different row. Here we 
stand between the two rows from which the horse is made to make it; 
and from these two rows we cut our first load as section 1, Fig. 2, 
instead of as section l, Fig. 1. The reason for this is evident; for if we 
began as in Fig. 1, when we had cut our eight rows we would have a 
single row left on each side of our shock. Beginning with section 1, cut 
the sections in the order indicated by the figures as l, 2, 3, 4, etc., 



TV/0 PERSONS WORKING AT THE SAME SHOCK. iS 

placing corn as indicated by the letters written with the figures as Bl, Cl, 
Dl, D2, etc. 

If two are working together let the one making the horse beginning 
with section 4, cut 5, 6, 9 and 10, while the other one cuts sections 1, 2, 
3, 7 and 8, placing the loads as indicated by the letters written with the 
figures as Bl, Cl, Dl, etc. Make the horse standing at D opposite to Y. 

If left-handed work around the shock in the opposite direction, 
cutting and placing the sections in this order: 1 at B, 6 at A, 5 at D, 4 at 
D, 3 at C, 2 at B, 10 at A, 9 at A, 8 and 7 at C. 

For Shocks Eight hy Six see Fig. 2, first six sections. 

Read description of Fig. l, page ll. Here we have each two rows 
divided into three sections. Making the horse at Y we cut the sections 
in the order indicated by the figures, as 1, 2, 3, 4, etc., placing the corn 
as indicated by the letters and figures, as Al, Bl, Cl, etc. 

If two are working together, let the one making the horse beginning 
with section 1, cut 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 9, 13, 14 and 15, the other one beginning 
with 4, cutting 4, 3, 5, 10, 11, 12, 16, 17, 18. 

If the corn is not too heavy make two sections of each two rows, 
making the sections twelve hills each instead of eight. 

If left handed work around the shock in the opposite direction, 
cutting the sections in this order: 1, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 9, 8, 7, 12, 11, 10, 15, 
14, 13, 18, 17, 16, placing the sections as follows: 1 at A, 6 at D, 5 at C, 
4 at C, 3 at B, 2 at A. Place the other sections as indicated by the 
letters written with the figures as B2, A3, D2, etc. 

For Shocks Twelve hjf Eight see the first twelve sections of Fig. 3 on 
next page. 



16 



SHOCKS TWELVE BY TWELVE, 



SHOCKS TWELVE BY TWELVE AND TWELVE BY EIGHT, 



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SHOCKS TWELVE BY TEN, TWELVE BY SIX. 



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Read description of Fig. l, page 11. Here we begin as in Fig 2 with 
the two rows from which the horse is made. Standing at Y to make the 
horse, if the corn is too heavy to carry the ten hills, we can cut the 
hills represented by L, M and N, O before the sections respectively. Cut 
the sections in the order represented by the figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc., 
placing the corn as indicated by the letters and figures written together 
as Bl, Cl, Dl, etc. 



18 



SHOCKS TEN BY TEN. 



If the corn. is light enough make only two sections of each two rows, 
placing them as in Fig. 2. If two are working let one cut sections 1, 2, 
3, 8, 9, 10, 11, while the other cuts 4, 5,^6, 7, 12, 13, 14. 

If left-handed, work around the shock in the opposite direction, 
cutting the sections in this order; 1, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 8, 7, 14, 13, 12, 11, 10, 
9, placing section 1 at B, 6 at A, 5 at D, 4 at D, 3 at C, 2 at C, 8 at B, 7 
at B, the other sections as indicated by the letters written with the 
figures as B3, A4, A3, etc. 

For Shocks Twelve by Six see the first eight sections of Fig. 4. 

SHOCKS TEN BY TEN AND TEN BY SIX. 




DESCRIPTION OF SHOCKS TEN BY TEN. 19 

Read description of Fig 1, page 11. Advancing from S to Y we make 
the horse. Then cut the sections as indicated by the figures as l, 2, 3, 4, 
etc., placing each load as indicated by the letters written with the figures, 
as Al, Bl, Cl, Dl, etc. 

If corn is drilled do not try to cut from and toward the shock in 
sections 1 and 3; but pass through the rows until you come between the 
two farthest from the shock, cut from the farthest one of them, what 
would equal the two hills cut in that row if cut as represented in the 
sections 1 and 3, then turn to the left and cut the same from the other 
of the two rows. Now pass through to the next two and do 
likewise and place your loads at A and C respectively. 

If the corn is not too heavy cut each two rows in two sections, as in 
Fig. 2, page 14. 

If two are working let one cut 1, 2, 5, 6, 9 and 10, while the other cuts 
3, 4, 7, 8, 11 and 12. 

If left handed, work around the shock in the opposite direction, 
cutting the sections in this order: 1, 4, 3, 2, 6, 5, 8, 7, 10, 9, 12, 11, 
placing each load as indicated by the letters written with the figures 
as Al, Dl, Cl, etc. 

For Shocks Ten hj> Six see first eight sections, making 1 and 3 four hills 
each. 



20 



ILLUSTRATION OF FIGURE 6. 



SHOCKS FOURTEEN BY FOURTEEN, FOURTEEN BY SIX AND FOURTEEN BY TEN. 





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DESCRIPTION OF SHOCKS FOURTEEN BY FOURTEEN. 21 

Read description of Fig. 1, page 11. Advancing from S to Y we make 
the horse. Then cut the sections as indicated by the numbers 1, 2, 3, 4, 
etc., placing the loads as indicated by the letters and figures written 
together as Bl, CI, Dl, Al, etc. 

If the corn is not too heavy bring in each two rows at three loads as 
in Fig. 4, page 17. 

If the corn is drilled you will make time to not cut across the rows; 
but to make the shock small enough so that you can bring in each two 
rows at three loads as in Fig. 4, page 17. If the corn is not too heavy 
you can do this without making the shock less. 

If two are working let the one making the horse cut sections 1, 4, 
5, 6, 11, 12, 13, 14, 19, 20 and 21, while the other cuts 2, 3, 8, 9, 15, 
16, 17, 18, 22, 23 and 24. 

If left-handed work around the shock in the opposite direction, 
cutting the sections in this order: 1, 4, 3, 2, 7, 6, 5, 10, 9, 8, 18, 17, 16, 
14, 13, 12, 24, 23, 22, 21, 20, 19, placing the loads as indicated by the 
letters written with the figures as Bi, Ai, Di, Ci, etc. 

For Shocks Fourteen hj> Six, see Fig. 6, first ten sections. 

For Shocks Fourteen hj> Ten, see the first eighteen sections, making 
11 and 15 four hills each. 



22 



SHOCKS FOURTEEN BY TWELVE. 



SHOCKS FOURTEEN BY TWELVE, FOURTEEN BY FOUR, FOURTEEN BY EIGHT. 




EXPLANATION OF FIGURE 7. 23 

Read description of Fig. 1, page 11. Advancing from S to Y v/e make 
the horse. Then cut the sections in this order: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, etc., 
placing the loads as indicated by the letters written with the figures as Bi, 
Ci, Di, D2, etc. 

If corn is drilled cut each two rows in three sections as in Fig. 3, page 
16. If two are working, since there is an odd section, they can each cut 
half of this, which will give each, his six rows to cut. Let the one mak- 
ing the horse beginning with his half section l,cut 4, 5, 6, 12, 13, 14, 
15,-19, 20 and 21, while the other beginning- with his half section 1, cuts 
2, 3, 8, 9, 10, 11, 16, 17 and 18. 

If left-handed work around the shock in the opposite direction, 
cutting the sections in the following order 1, 4, 5, 2, 3, 7, 6, 15, 14, 12, 
13, 11, 10, 8, 9, 21, 20, 19, 18, 17, 16, placing the loads as indicated by 
the letters written with the figures as Bi, Ai, Di, Ci. etc. 

For Shocks Fourteen hy Four see the first seven sections of Fig. 7. 

For Shocks Fourteen by Eight see first fifteen sections of Fig. 7. But in 
section 1 instead of cutting as shown in drawing, cut forward four hills, 
back four, leaving corn at B, continue straight on four hills and back 
four. Cut 13 and l5 as indicated and the balance of these two rows in 
one section. 



24 



ILLUSTRATION OF FIGURE 8. 



SHOCKS SIXTEEN BY SIXTEEN, SIXTEEN BY FOUR, SIXTEEN BY EIGHT, 
SIXTEEN BY TWELVE. 




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DESCRIPTION OF FIGURE 8. 25 

Read description of Fig. 1, page 11. Advancing from S to Y we make 
the horse. Then cut the sections in the following order: l, 2, 3, 4, 5, 
etc., placing the corn as indicated by the letters and figures written 
together as Ai, Bi, Cl, Di, etc. 

If corn is light enough cut each two rows in three sections as in Fig. 
3, page 16, or in two sections as in Fig. 1, page 11. 

If two are working let the one making the horse cut 1, 2, 7, 6, 13, 14, 
15, 16, 21, 22, 23, 24, 29, 30, 31, 32, while the other one cuts 3, 4, 5, 8, 
9, 10, 11, 12, 17, 18, 19, 20, 25, 26, 27, 28. 

If left-handed work around the shock in the opposite direction cutting 
the sections in the following order: 2, 1, 4, 3, 8, 7, 6, 5, 11, 12, 9, 10, 
15, 16, 13, 14, 19, 20, 17, 18, 23, 24, 21, 22, 27, 28, 25, 26, 31, 32, 27, 30, 
placing corn as indicated by the letters written with the figures, as Bi, Ai, 
Di, Ci. 

For Shocks Sixteen by Four see first eight sections of Fig. 8. 

For Shocks Sixteen by Eight see first sixteen sections of Fig. 8. 

For Shocks Sixteen bv Twelve see first twenty-four sections of Fig. 8. 



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26 



SHOCKS SIXTEEN BY FOURTEEN. 



SHOCKS SIXTEEN BY FOURTNEN, SIXTEEN BY SIX, SIXTEEN BY TEN. 



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DESCRIPTION OF FIGURE 9. 27 

Read description of Fig. 1, page 11. Advancing from S to Y we make 
the horse. Then cut the sections as indicated by the figures, as 1, 2, 3, 
4, 5, etc., placing corn as indicated by the letters and figures written 
together as Bi, Ci, Di, D2, etc. 

If the corn is light enough cut each two rows in three sections instead 
of four, making four of horse rows, as shown in the drawing. 

If two are working together let one cut sections 1, 2, 3, 10, 8, 9, 17, 
18, 19, 20, 25, 26, 27, 28, while the other one cuts 4, 5, 6, 7, 11, 12, 13, 
14, 15, 16, 21, 22, 23 and 24. 

If left- handed work around the shock in the opposite direction, 
cutting the sections in the following order: 1, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 9, 8, 7, 12, 
11, 10, 19, 20, 17, 18, 15, 16, 13, 14, 27, 28, 25, 26, 23, 24, 21, 22, 
placing the corn as indicated by the letters written with the figures as Bi, 
A2, Ai, Di, etc., except section 5 should be placed at D instead of at A, 
and section 3 at C instead of at D. 

For Shocks Sixteen Jjy Six see first twelve sections of Fig. 9. 

For Shocks Sixteen hy Ten see first twenty sections of Fig. 9. 



I(oLerl5' Jlvl of Educ^Iin^ Hor5e$. 



CHAPTER I. 



THE HORSEMAN. 



Man has strength enough to master any horse, providing that this 
strength is apphed at the proper time and in the right manner. So the 
first part of man called into use, in mastering a horse, is his judgement. 
But if a man is excited his judgement is impaired, if not lost entirely, 
for tfie time being. Then the lirst thing that the horseman needs is 
self-control, that, at the most critical moment, he may be calm and 
know just what to do. 

There is a wide difference between the conqueror and the conquered. 

We never ask which way a dog is running if we hear him bark. One 

minute we hear him and say he is after something, the next we hear 

him again and say something is after him. V/e can notice the same 

difference in man, either in voice or general bearing. What is more 

essential to one who expects to be obeyed than to show by voice and 

manner that he is master of the situation. Often the horse knows that 

his rider or driver is frightened, before the rider or driver himself 

reahzes it. There is nothing which weakens man's influence over a 

horse, so much, as for the horse to realize that his master is frightened. 

So the horseman must not only, not show timidity, but should have 

self confidence. 

29 



30 REQUISITES OF HORSEMEN. 

If a man would gain complete control of a horse he must beget within 
the horse, confidence in himself. All animals trust most those who 
treat them kindly. So we see that kindness is an essential to the 
horseman. 

The horse should never know that he could disobey his master. Thus 
firmness is another essential of the horseman. 

One person can excite a whole crowd by a single act or word. We all 
know the effects of the cry of fire, help, etc. If someone speaks to us 
quickly and sharply, we feel that they are angry, and it immediately 
excites us. Students in our schools are often so confused by sharp 
words from the teacher that they cannot tell what they really know. 
One day in a Greek class a young man having been confused by the 
angry bearing of his professor said, "Professor, I knew this lesson before 
I came to class, but you have scared it all out of me." If men become 
so confused at loud or unkind words, is it any wonder that the horse 
becomes excited and tries to escape or de'fend himself? And even when, 
as often is the ease, a sharp cut from a whip accompanies loud words. 
On the other hand what has a more quieting influence on us in times of 
excitement, than to come in contact with someone, who by a quiet voice 
and composed manner assures us that there is no danger. 'And if such 
a person can call us to our senses in times of excitement, will not a 
quiet and re-assuring voice have the same influence on the horse. So 
we would say that quietness of manner is helpful to the horseman. 

Thus we see there are five virtues one should have to become a good 
horseman; (1) self control; (2) the power to not show timidness, but 
self confidence; (3) kindness; (4) firmness; (5) quietness of manner. 

How may these virtues be attained? If one does not feel that he is 
able to master his horse, or does not know just how to manage him. 



THE HORSE AND THE HORSEMAN. 31 

it will be difficult for him to be self-controlled if anything goes wrong. 
He will be afraid and cannot help showing it. He may be kind but can 
not be firm. Neither can he be calm in his manner.* But on the other 
hand, if he knows that he is able for his task, and knows just what to 
do and how to do it, it becomes natural to practice all of these virtues. 
To show what to do and how to do it will be the object of the 
following chapters. 



CHAPTER II. 
THE HORSE. 



The horse is now one of the most universally distributed animals, and 
every where is recognized as man's most useful servant; and if properly 
treated is his most faithful and obedient servant. The horse has been 
the constant servant of man for nearly four thousand years, giving his 
fleetness to the journey of his master, and exerting his strength as directed 
by the human mind. The horse may be under-fed and over-worked, 
yet if otherwise properly treated, he will go at his master's bidding until 
completely exhausted. 

We never speak of the horse as having imagination. Sometimes we 
see in him things that lead us to believe that he has slight powers of 
reasoning. But that he has the power to remember, we do not doubt. 
We know that horses comprehend and remember the ideas expressed by 
some words; as "get up," "whoa," etc. So we have in the horse a mind 
that is capable of receiving ideas from the human mind, and of retaining 
those ideas. 



32 DISPOSITION OF THE HORSE. 

In intellect, the horse is not to be compared to man. And perhaps it 
is well for many so called horsemen, that the horse is not more intelhgent 
than he is, for they would scarcely dare treat a being of stronger intellect 
and having such superior physical strength, with such cruelty as they 
treat the horse. To what extent a horse might be educated is hard to 
determine. Some horses have received an education, which we say is 
wonderful, for a horse. When we consider how soon he can be taught 
enought to pass for a well educated horse, if his mind developes by the 
same law as our own, (and we have no reason for thinking other wise,) 
how much could he be taught in a lifeof twenty years? Usually his intellect 
is not at fault half so much as our mode of communicating our ideas to 
him. 

The horse in his disposition is naturally kind, and peculiarly adapted 
to be a servant of man. When we consider the size of the horse there is 
no other animal less offensive or defensive. Not one horse in a hundred 
will show as much fight as a hen with a brood of chickens. His mode of 
defense is not by fighting but by running away from that which would 
harm him. Again he is entirely dependent and consequently not, so 
independant as some other animals. Some animals take care of them 
selves, making themselves homes and laying up stores, as the squirrel. 
The horse does none of these things. When he is hungry he eats if he 
can find food. If the weather is rough he seeks shelter if it is provided 
for him, otherwise he drifts with the wind. He is of a passive nature 
yielding readily to influences brought to bear upon him. Yet sometimes 
v/e find in him a streak of stubborness, and if treated in a cruel- manner it 
seems, sometimes, that he would die rather than give up. Also we see 
in him a disposition to follow up successful experience. This is seen in 
the colt which has broken its halter or thrown its rider, etc. 



TO GAIN CONTROL OF THE HORSE. 53 

So briefly we may sum up the disposition of the horse as follows: 
First.— The horse is naturally kind, and wilHng to submit to the 

authority of man, when he learns that man is a friend and not an enemy. 
Second. — He is not conscious of his strenth, and can be handled 

according to our will, so long as we work in harmony with the lav s of 

his nature. 

Third. — Allowing him the privilege of examining things which are new 
to him, in his natural way, we can take almost anything which does not 
inflict pain, around or on him without frightening him. 



CHAPTER III. 
HOW TO GAIN CONTROL OF THE HORSE. 

Man's power over the horse lies not in his physical strength, for in 
this he is far inferior to the horse, but in the superiority of his intellect 
over that of the horse. Man has that subtle power of mind which 
enables him to study out the disposition of the horse, and a mode of 
procedure by which, the horse being of such a disposition, may be 
made subservient to his will. We have already considered the 
disposition of the horse in the previous chapter. Now let us consider 
what mode of proceedure will give the required result. 

If we compare the traits of the true horseman, as given in Chapter I., 
with those of the horse as given in the previous chapter, we find that 
they are exactly opposite. While the horse has a disposition that is 



34 TO BRIDLE THE COLT. 

naturally obedient, man has a disposition that naturally assumes 
authority. So the horse is suited to obey, man to command. 

The horseman should appear infallible to the horse. He should seem to 
be able to do just as he pleases with the horse, and to do this without 
any show of effort. Nothing will make a horse respect you so much as 
to be able to manage him seemingly without effort. All this we can do 
successfully by following the system herein set forth. 

Four things we should guard against: 

First. — So far as possible avoid scaring the horse, for fear is the 
greatest obstacle which we have to overcome. 

Second. — Avoid giving the horse pain. 

Third.— Never appear to be angry; nothing will lower you so much 
in the estimation of the being which you are controling, man or beast, 
as to become angry. It shows weakness, and invites a contest of brute 
strength, your weakest point. 

Fourth. — Avoid loud, harsh tones of voice. Keeping these precepts in 
mind we are now ready to begin with our colt. We suppose he has never 
been haltered, nor seen the inside of a stable. 

To Bridle the Colt. — Let the colt follow another horse from the 
pasture into the stable or shed. Now when you enter the stable, do not 
attempt to approach too near to the colt at once, but stand still a little 
while and give him a chance to see you. Take a small rope (a bed 
cord) about twenty feet long. On one end make a loop, one that 
will not slip, as if you were going to tie a cow around the neck with it, 
but only large enough to slip over his lower jaw. Take your rope on 
one arm and with the other arm bent at the elbow, the liand, palm up, 
toward the colt, approach him keeping opposite his shoulder. This will 



TO BRIDLE THE COLT. 



35 



have a tendency to keep him from moving either forward or backward. 
If he should move forward or backward step quietly to the right or left. 
When almost in contact with him stand motionless for a short time, 
giving him another opportunity to examine you. Then speaking gently 
place the hand lightly upon his shoulder, working up toward the head 
and down the side and front of it to his nostrils. When the nose is 
reached let the hand remain a short time so that he may smell it. This 
is his way of examining things, whether they are dangerous or not. Now 
pass the end of your rope with the loop on it over his neck, then the 




Figure i . 
other end down through the loop, and slip the loop over his lower jaw 
as in Fig. 1, and you have him bridled in such a way that you can hold 
him easily with one hand. (This bridle will hereafter be called the rope 
bridle.) Now pat him a little, if he tries to leave you, stop him with a 
firm hand. Let him examine you. Let him learn that you will not hurt 
him and that he cannot get away. Pat him, speaking to him in kind 
tones, but restrain him with a firm hand whenever he tries to leave you 
until he stands quietly by you. When he stands quietly pat him, that he 
may become accustomed to your touch. With this bridle you can learn 
the colt to lead in a few minutes. When he does not mind your rubbing 
him, step a Httle to one side and draw his head to you, at the same time 



36 



To SWING THE HORSE. 



saying "come." When he comes readily do the same on the other side, 
and then in front of him. If he should be inclined to be stubborn and 
not want to come when you draw on him, do not speak loud to him but 
be as calm as if he was doing the very thing you wanted him to do, but 
tighten your rope and pull steadily on him until he moves toward you. 
You will not have to wait -long. Do this until he will follow you with- 
out tightening the rope, and in a few minutes he will follow you 
anywhere. 




Figure 2. 

To Swing the Horse. If you put a halter on him over the rope bridle, 

by taking the halter-strap in your left hand and his tail in your right you 

can swing him around you, by always pulling his head toward you in a 

way that will make him feel that you are able to pick Iiim up and throw 



TO HOBBLE THE HORSE. 37 

him over a fence. It is wonderful how this swinging will make him 
respect you. Most horses which would not let you touch their legs, 
after being swung thus will permit you to handle their legs as a horse 
that has been accustomed to being shod. 

Bend up one of his fore legs, draw a loop over the knee up to the 
pastern joint and secure it there as in Fig. 2, Lead him about a little and 
you can rub him all over. When you deprive him of the use of one 
of his legs it has about the same effect on him as swinging. When 
he shows by his eyes that he is subdued let his foot down. Now 
stand by his side well back, and draw his head to you. When he comes 
readily do the same on the opposite side. Now you may bridle him, 
using "Roberts' Handy Attachment"* on your bridle. Leave the rope 
bridle on him, put your hnes on, take a whip in your hand, if necessary, 
use it gently and learn him to drive. At first he will want to turn around 
with his head toward you and follow you. But if you are kind and firm 
you can soon prevent this; for if he attempts to turn to the left your 
right line as it draws around his right hip will drav/ his head to the 
right or vice versa. Now you may teach him to go forward at your 
bidding. When you get him so that he will walk along in front of you, 
you may teach him the meaning of the word "whoa." This is but a 
few minutes job. Speak the word once in a firm but kind tone of voice 
stopping him at the same time with your lines. If he wants to start 
again immediately stop him as firmly as at first, and do not let him go 
until he is willing to stand still until you bid him go. Be firm here and 
when you hitch him if anything should go wrong and you bid him stop 
he will obey you. Now if your work has been thorough you have control 

♦•'Roberts' Handy Attachment" is a device which can be attached to a bridle 
with an ordinary snaffle-bit in abo ut a minute, and will enable one to hold any 
horse. 



38 TO EDUCATE THE HORSE. 

of your colt. We have not only overcome his desire to escape, but have 
impressed on his mind the fact that he cannot escape. We have taught 
him that we can touch and rub all parts of his body at our will whether 
he likes it or not, and at the same time have shown to him that there is 
no danger to him. We have also taught him to obey the bit, turning to 
the right or left at a pull of the bit, and to stop at the word "whoa." 

We use the rope bridle in gaining control of the horse because by it a 
child can hold a horse that a man could not hold by an ordinary bridle. 



CHAPTER IV. 

HOW TO EDUCATE THE HORSE. 

Let US consider what we want to teach the horse; for if we begin not 
knowing what we want to do, wc will surely fail. What has gone 
before constitutes a part of his education. But still there are -many 
things which we must teach him before he is a well broken horse. He 
must learn to stand hitched; to stand quietly while being saddled and 
mounted; to go and stop at his master's bidding. He must become ac- 
customed to the harness, standing quietly while being harnessed, and 
not minding them where ever they may touch him. In addition to the 
obedience to the bit which he has already learned he must learn to back. 
Also he must become acquainted with the buggy or what ever he may 
be hitched to. His vocabulary need not be large. If he becomes 
obedient to seven words we can work him any place without lines. 



THE WORD "WHOA." 39 

These seven words are, " get up", "whoa", "back", "haw", "gee", 
"faster", "slowly". So we see the things the horse should know are not 
so many as one would think. 

The JVord ''JVhoa'\ Many horsemen make a mistake in their use of 
this word. This is the most important word in the horses vocabulary, and 
if properly used would save many a run away, broken bones, and even life; 
for if properly used your horse will stop and stand still every time you 
speak the word "v>^hoa." You should never use the word "whoa" ex- 
cept when your horse is in motion, and you expect him to stop. Many 
men use the word "whoa" a dozen times when they do not expect their 
horse to obey, to where they use it once and expect him to obey. The 
first word a man utters on entering the stable is "whoa" and every horse 
there is standing stock still. The same man takes his team out, goes 
away from them a little ways, something startles them, they start. He 
cries, whoa! whoa! but does not expect them to stop; for they never have 
been in the habit of stopping at that word unless they wanted to. The 
result is a runaway, and perhaps a broken machine or wagon and a crip- 
pled horse. Another man on entering the stable says good morning 
as if addressing a fellow creature. If his horse is foohsh about being cur- 
ried he quiets him with some such word as 'behave.' His horse has never 
heard the word "whoa" without stopping. He is standing, his driver is 
out of reach of the lines, something startles him, he starts, his driver 
says, in a firm tone of voice "whoa" and he stops. Dear reader, if you 
have been in the habit of using this word promiscuously this paragraph 
alone, if you will heed it, will be worth ten times the cost of this book 
to you. Always use your words so that your horse will have no reason 
for disobeying and you will be surprised how obedient he will be. 



40 TO SADDLE THE COLT. 

Now let us return to the colt as we left him in Chap. III. and go on 
with his education. If it is convenient take him into a shed where the 
loft will be out of the way of your head when on him, a barn is a good 
place if clear of machinery and such things. If it is not convenient to go 
into a barn or shed there is plenty of room out side. 

To Saddle The Colt. He has never had anything on except the rope 
bridle. Lead him to where the saddle lays. If he setmsto be afraid of 
it give him time to see it. Show him that you can handle it with safety. 
Now take the saddle in one hand, holding your rope in the other. Do 
not try to hide the saddle from him, neither jam it suddenly against his 
nose. Let him have time to examine it in his own way, which he will do 
with his nose. Let it touch his nose above the nostril, holding your 
rope in your hand raise the saddle gently up along his face. Do not let 
him back away from it. In a little while he will permit you to slip it 
back over his ears down his neck to the proper place, Move it about 
on his back and take it off over his head and let him examine it again. 
Now put it back the same way and you will never have any trouble sad- 
dling him. Do not draw the girth very tight at first. Take hold of the 
saddle and move it so as to draw on the girth. Lead him about some 
and if he should undertake to jump settle him with a sharp pull on your 
rope. When he no longer minds the saddle grithed loosly, tighten the 
girth and lead him again until he becomes quiet. Now he has learned to 
carry the saddle. 

Mounting the Colt. Now niake a rein of your rope, holding it in your 
left hand so that you can give him a smart pull if he undertakes to move, 
place your foot in the stirrup, bear gently on it raising yourself partly. 
Do this a few times that he may see your rising motion. Now gently 



MOUNTING THE COLT. 41 

mount, holding your rope so that you can stop him immediately if he 
should move. When you are on him sit quiet for a Uttle while until he 
sort of realizes the situation, get off and mount again, move about in the 
saddle that he may feel you, but do not let him start for awhile. When 
he has become somewhat familiar with you in the saddle you may let 
him walk but do not let him go faster than the walk until he learns to 
carry you quietly, then you may let him trot slowly at first, but it will 
not be long until you can let him go as fast as he likes and still have 
control of him. If he should be inclined to be ugly about mounting and 
will not stand after you have given him a few sharp pulls with your rope, 
raise his fore foot and fasten it up as in Fig. 2, lead him about a little 
and you can mount him in safety. If he does not start readily when you 
want him to go turn him about by drawing on one side of the rein, 
generally he will go. But if he is inclined to be stubborn, get off and 
bring him out of his tracks with your rope bridle; do this until he will 
go when you, standing with your arm over the saddle ask him to. Do 
not get excited, but keep calm and appear to be well pleased, and soon 
he will go alright. Now you can put a common bridle on him, leaving 
the rope bridle on until you can control him with the other. In these 
early lessons "you will find "Robert's Handy Attachment" almost invalu- 
able, as it gives an effect similar to that of the rope bridle. 

Two reasons for handling him in this way, you can prevent him from 
moviug away from the saddle better than if you were putting it on from 
the side. And a colt broken in this way will not give you any trouble 
about putting other things on him if you let him examine what is new 
to him. Again you will have no trouble mounting him. Now, having 
given him. the first lesson, ride him three or four times a day if conven- 

6 ra 



42 TO HARNESS THE COLT. 

ient. And if possible let the same person have control of him for the 
first few times. Of course he will be rather awkward at first, and will 
not comply with 3'cur requests with that free and eas}^ movement that 
comes with practice. But give him a fair chance and you Vv'iil be sur- 
prised how quickly he will learn. 

To Harness the Colt ^ Never use blinders en a colt. ifacv:;i .:... lo 
run away or kick it is because he is scared. And he is much more apt 
to be scared if he cannot see than if his vision is not hindered by blinders. 
We do not like to be blindfolded v/hen there is something going on 
which we do not understand. A horse's eyes were m.ade to see with as 
much as his driver's were. And when we blindfold him vv^e are not 
working in harmony with the laws of his nature. Place man in circum- 
stances as strange and frightful as those of the colt, in his first lessons, 
and then blindfold him and there is not one man in twenty whose hair 
would not stand on end. 

During these early lessons if you do not have "Robert's Handy 
Attachment" use the rope bridle in connection with the common bridle. 
Put the collar on letting him examine it as you did the saddle. Open it 
at the top instead of putting it (*\'er his head. Let him examine the 
harness and place them gently on his back, well up tov/ard his shoulders 
and fasten them. Lead him about and if he undertakes to jump, quiet 
him with a pull of you, rope bridle. When he does not mind the harness 
longer put your lines on and drive him about, letting the lines draw 
around his hips and legs as the traces may do when ,you hitch him. 
When he drives alright, place the lines between his hind legs and drive 
him about until he is accustomed to them touching the in side of his legs 
as well as the out side Then when you hitch him, if he should get his 



TO HITCH THE COLT. 43 

foot over liie trace it will not fris'hten him, but he will stand quietly 
until you unhoolc the trace and get him in shape again. When he no 
longer minds the harness wherever they may touch him, and this need 
not be Ion- ii' yoa are kind and tlrm, you may hitch him. If you have a 
good quiet horse to hitch by the side of him, all the better, but if not 
hitch liim alone. If you hitch him with another horse put your lines on 
and drive them together a few minutes before liitching to anything. Now- 
having let him examine whatever you intend hitching him to, square 
them around to the pole if a wagon or a buggy, to the double tree if a 
plow or anything of that sort. Hitch up and let them start off quietly. 
If h^ undertakes to junlp, a sharp pull on the line, if you have "The 
Attachment" on, if not, on your rope, will convince hirn that he had 
better go siov/. Let him go slowly at first, he will have a better chance 
to comprehend things and will not be so apt to become frightened. 
If you hitch !iim to the plow where you are driving with a single line, 
have youi- rope or a side line on him so that you can prevent him from 
crowding around the other horse, if you hitch him single make him 
stand quiet while you bring the shafts up over him, now let them 
touch him, that he may kuow they will not hurt him. When he is 
hitched let him start slov/ly. And here also if he should try to jump 
meet him vvitn a firm hand. Sometimes he will hesitate abhut starting, 
especially when hitched single. Do not whip him. If he does not go 
from a little coaxing and a few gentle touches of the whip. If you are by 
yourself take the lines in your hand, so as not to get them tangled, and 
lead him up a few times with the rope bridle, as in teaching him to ride. 
If you have some one with you let him do this leading. In this way it 
will not take long to learn him to start. *'* 



44 TO Work the colt. 

To Work The Colt, Now when he goes readily at your command, if 
you are careful with him you will have no trouble in learning him to 
pull. Do not get him excited and when you start him let him lean against 
the collar slowly and it will be natural for him to pull, steadily and true . 
If you are carefull here you will have no trouble with him jerking and 
then flying back. During this first lesson let him stop often; giving the 
command "whoa" once only, but always make him obey immediately. 
Always speak in a kind tone of voice. And before you are through with 
the first lesson he will stop at your command even if you do not have 
hold of the lines. Now let him go to the harness as often as convenient 
for a few days, but do not work him too hard for he is tender and can- 
not stand it like he will after he has been worked two or three weeks 

To Teach The Colt To Back. It is best to teach him to back when he 
is not hitched to anything, this is soon done. Take him with the rope 
briddle or the "Attatchment," take the rope or rein with the left hand 
near his mouth, place your right hand on the point of his shoulder, 
press him hard with your right hand, at the same time tighten the rein. 
Do not force him back, but hold the rein tight and soon he will give 
way from it. As he steps back loosen the rein. When he begins to 
move back at this pressure, let it be accompanied by the word "back." 
Soon he will back freely at the pressure of the bit and the command. And 
if you show him, that every time you say "back," he must back, in a few 
minutes he will back at the word. At first do not ask him to back a 
heavy load and he will become a good backer just as he becomes a good 
puller, 

To Teach the Colt to Stand Tied. If he has never been tied, tie him 
somewhere with the rope bridle. He will not try it more than twice. 



TO BREAK THE HORSE TO THE SINGLE LINE. 45 

If you do not have this handy take a good strong hitching strap buckle it 
into the bit ring on one side, between the headstall and rein, pass 
it up over his head, under the throat-latch, so that he can not rub it off, 
and down through the bit ring on the other side. Tie him with this 
whenever you hitch him for a few days and you will find him where you 
leave him. 

To Break the Horse to the Single Line. Every horse that is to be 
worked on the farm should be broken to the single Hne. The plow is, 
perhaps, the best place to do this. Do not hitch him to anything during 
his first lesson. It need not be a long one however. Take him by him- 
self, use "Roberts' Handy Attachment" on him, put a double line on and 
drive him about, turning him to the right and left, teaching him the 
meaning af the words "haw," "gee" and give him a review on "back" 
and " whoa." To learn him "haw" draw both lines nearly equal, just 
enough stronger on the left one to cause him to turn in that direction. 
To learn him "gee," jerk him slightly with the right line the tightest. 
He will soon disting'uish between the pull and the jerk, learning that a 
pull means turn to the left, while a jerk means turn to the right. Now 
see that you can drive him with the lines nearly even leaving the left a 
little shorter, and make him obey the words, "get up," "haw," "gee," 
"whoa," whenever you utter them. You need not get him excited if 
you are calm and speak to him in a kind tone of voice. If either you 
or your horse should get excicted, wait until both become calm, you 
will gain time by doing this. When you have him so that you can turn 
him either way, back and stop him readily, put on your single line 
leaving the left side a little the shortest, tie your other horse to him and 
drive them along the furrow a few rods to show him where he must 



46 TO TEACH THZ HORSE TO WALK FAST. 

walk in his new position, then hitch hiin up and go ahead. If he should 
make a mistake you w^'^ ' :. ■:". ,: ': him unless' you ^et ex- 

cited. The author usuu.-;,- ;.c. - ■' r\ry lesson while going 

lo dinner and hack. He has brc- .i/^Lline the lirst day 

they ever had th.^ harness on. To d j tnis you should have a horse 
in the furrow that will stay there and not crowd your new leader. 

7'o Teach the Hors:: to lyaii^ Fast. Everyone knows how unpleasant 
it is to have a htjise stari: oh' in a lii:tle dog trot when you try io crowd 
hirn out of a three mile per hour gait. A horse of good action ought to 
v/alk from 4 1-2 to 5 miles per hour, some will even beat this. To make 
him do this you must learn him to exert himself without breaking into 
a trot. To do this you should 1 .4uachment" for your bridle. 

You tell him to go faster, by chc: :.^,...^, .j him or by a gentle touch of 
the Vvd^iip. He will break into a trot but you immedialely pull him down, 
not by a jerk but yet with a firm hand telling him at the same time to 
walk. Perhaps he v/ill stop the first time but start hirn immediately, not 
vvith a cut from the whip hovs'cver. -He will start slowly at first but 
crowd him out of that slow walk and as soon as he starts into a trot 
pull him down telling him to walk. Do not goA excited; be patient, but 
firm with him. In this way you can learn him the meaning of the word 
v/alk, just as you have the other words which you have tauglit hirn. 
You will be surprised at the increase in his spead in a single evening. 
Ckit to secure this result you must not let him v/alk or trot as he pleases, 
but give him to uziderstand that he must walk when you tell him to, 
tven if it does cause him to exert himself. You can increase his speed as 
a trotter in the same way, teaching him the distinction between the 
words "v^'alk" and "trot." 



TO PREPARE THE HORSE TO BE SHOD. 47 

In all this work yoi; win tench your horse as much in one evening; if 
you have ''RobcrL's Hunciy AUachnicn!;" !.;n liim, as you would in three 
or four with the ' . ■':':. Wiih tills '^Attachment" a small boy 

will hold a horse i,j..l .c i....ii could not wiih the ordinary siiaffle bit, and 
yet It never lacerates the ni- 'iih. 

To Vreparc the Ho,:i. : ... ' .li^n ■e...v;. lus entirely to ti;e 

smith, 'i'his should not be, there w^'i be e!iou;!h dc^,- rhmi/s ior him 
to comprehend the ^^rsl irrit h^;' :^ucs to Jie shop, \:' -^^ ^ny his 

feet handled for li-e iii;^ --^ -njster should be ;u';i,' ivM'iLic tip hiS 

feet and handle them be; . ,,ithhimto the shop. This he 

can soon do with safety, if he is lb :i;s,! about havmy tns ieot nandied, 
swinj.': him by tlie haher and tad a couple of tijnes, and generally he v/iil 
be as meek as a Iamb. But if Ir; is still independant about li, put the 
rope bridle on him and pick up his foot, and if he offers any resistance 
give ium :i sharp pull v/ith your rope and tell him to behave himself. 
In a few minutes you will be able to do as you p, .. .ds feet. 

To Teach the Horse io Stand Without Being Tied. It ts v-: .;ent 

to have your horse so trained that you can leave him for a sh. 
without hitching him, e^i-rrivLv r; v:io,;|!e horse, or a driver r:r , ,:^ ,^ 

horse where you stop c . _ ..;m only ior a iitib . .^ The 

first preparation for this is to learn your horse to stand quietly while 
you are with him. At your ■■:."mmn;i:l "whoa'' he should stop and 
stand still until told to go. Ta;S you can soon teach him by giving the 
command "v/lioa" and stopping him immediately. V/ait quietly for 
awhile, if he starts do not speak to him but stop aim v/ith a sharp pull, 
on the lines. When he is willing to stand quietly until told to go, you 
can leave him for a short distance. If you leave him too far to stop 



48 TO REIN THE COLT. 

him by the word "whoa" you had better fasten a weight to the end of 
your Hnes, and drop this out on the ground when you stop, for awhile, 
until he becomes accustomed to standing. 

Do not leave him out of your reach until he will stop at your com- 
mand "whoa" especially if high lifed and he is feeling good. With the 
saddle horse you can use somev hat different tactics. Take a good 
hitching strap, fasten it into one bit-ring, pass it up over his head and 
down through the other bit ring as in teaching the horse to stand tied, 
and fasten it to his fore foot so that he can scarcely get his head up level 
with his back, and let him eat grass until you come back. After the 
first time or so you will not need the hitching strap, simply loop the 
rein around his pastern, soon you will only need to throw the rein over 

his head. 

To Rein the Colt. You should not rein the colt tight at all at first, it 
will bother him. He will have enough to comprehend without being 
bothered by being reined up. If you have him reined moderately tight 
it keeps the bit tight against his mouth, for he has not learned to carry 
his head up off it, this has a tendency to vex him. But when he begins 
to drive nicely and becomes accustomed to the bit you can work his 
head up gradually, and give him a better bearng than to rein him at first. 

What you teach your colt teach him thoroughly. Always treat him 
kindly that he may have no reason to fear you. Always treat him with 
firmness so as to secure obedience. Give him frequent reviews, that 
what he has learned may always be fresh in his mind. 

Never give him a command that you do not expect him to obey. 



TO BREAK THE HORSE TO THE SINGLE LINE. 49 

CHAPTER V. 
BAD HABITS, HOW BROKEN UP. 

It is through that disposition, in the horse, to follow up) successful 
experience, that he learns to baffle man. And when he has learned to 
baffle us in any one thing we call it a bad habit or -trick. For instance, 
restlessness while being mDunted. At first this may comz from his 
eagerness to go. He learns that it disturbs his rider. He grows worse 
and becomes unsafe. His experience in preventing his rider from 
mounting has, to a degree been successful. Here we are no longer 
dealing with a colt which would prevent us from mounting him because 
he is afraid of us, but with a horse which has learned how to take the 
advantage of his rider before he is settled in the saddle. So we must be 
more careful than ever to give him to understand that our word is law 
and that we can compel him to obey as easily as not. Always keep in a 
good humor, especially when you are trying to break up a fault in your 
horse. This is more important than you, at first, will realize. Be firm. 
Be kind. Be patient. And you will be successful beyond what you 
expect. 

Bridle Breaking. Read how to teach the colt to stand tied, under 
Chap. IV, and use a good strap as directed there and this fault is quickly 
and easily broken up. 

Rubbing the Bridle Off. To prevent a horse from rubbing the bridle 

off, take two straps, one with a buckle on it and long enough to buckle 

around the horses' neck, at the throat where the n?ck is the smallest, the 

7 ra. 



50 NOT LETTING THE BIT INTO THE MOUTH. 

other one about six inches long, with a sUt cut in each end so you ca"n pass 
the tirst one through it. Draw the strap with the buckle through one 
end of the short strap. Place the short one around the head-stall of 
your bridle and draw the end with the buckle through the other end also. 
Buckle it about his neck so as not to choke him. This he cannot get 

over his head no matter how hard he may try. And he will soon give 
up trying Vv^hen he learns that his work is in vain. 

These straps you can carry in the buggy or wagon or tied to your 
saddle for a few days. It only takes a minute to put them on when you 
hitch him. 

tJ^ot Letting the Bit into the Mouth, Some horses are hard to bridle, 
holding their teeth shut tight. Put your bridle up over his face as usual 
until the bit comes in contact with his teeth. Catch him by the nose 
above the nostrils, pass your thumb between his lips back of his front 
teeth, and press with the end of your thumb against the roof of his 
mouth and he will soon forget about trying to keep the bit out of his 
mouth. 

T^estlessitess IVhtle Being zMotuited. Sometimes this comes from a 
desire to prevent the rider from mounting, sometimes from eagerness to 
go. But it is an easy fault to overcome. Simply raise his foot and 
fasten it up as in Fig. 2. Lead him about until he seems willing to stand 
quietly. Now you get on and off and he will not move out of his 
tracks. Get on and off several times, and from either side. And you 
can let his foot down and get on and off in safety. You can also mount 
him with safety by holding his head around by his shoulder. This is 
done thus: Take the rein in the left hand, seize the mane about where 
the collar rests, draw the left side of the rein through your hand until 
you bring his nose around by his shoulder. If he wants to turn let him 



RESTLESSNESS WHILE GETTING INTO THE CARRIAGE. Si 

turn until he is willing to stand quietly, but do not let him have his head, 
when he stands quietly get on. While you keep his head around he can 
not jump; he may turn again but he can only turn, and if you keep his 
head around until he becomes quiet, in a time or two he v.'ill stand 
quietly. If you can combine these two methods, using the latter after 
you have subdued him by the former you have him doubly sure, and 
although clumsy about mounting, you can always do it in safety. 

T^estlessjiess While Getting into the Carriage. This is a very unpleasant 
and sometimes dangerous habit. But it can soon be broken up if you 
are firm and kind. Use "The Attachment" on your bridle. Do not try 
to hold your lines tight, but in such a way that you can give him a good 
sharp pull, not a jerk, if he should start, at the same time with a firm 
voice say '-whoa." Do not now try to get in quickly before he starts, 
but stand quietly until he becomes quiet, repeating the pull and word if 
he starts. Soon he will stand quietly until you get in. Then do not 
let him start immediately, but wait a minute or so and then let him start 
off slowly. If you spend half an hour some evening teaching him to 
stand while you get in, stopping every little bit to get out and in, you 
will be surprised how he quiets down in a few minutes. Take no half 
way work from him, but give him to understand that he must wait until 
you are ready, and that you do not need to hurry on his account at all. 
He may have been restless for years always giving you trouble when get- 
ting in. But if you go to work earnestly in this way, he will soon 
stand all right. Do not get him excited. 

Kicking. The habit of kicking is a bad and dangerous one. Some- 
times a horse kicks because he is frightened. Sometimes he is touchy 
and kicks if anything goes wrong about the harness, or if he gets his 



52 KICKING. 

foot over the trace. And sometimes he has learned that by kicking he 
can scare his driver, and perhaps free himself from the harness or 
whatever he is hitched to. Some horses seem to kick for fun or for 
sheer meanness. But it is a fault that we can readily overcome. Before 
you hitch him be sure that you have control of him so as to stop him at 
your will. Use "The Attachment" on him, and if you think he will be 
hard to handle put the rope bridle on him, letting it come well back on 
his neck. It will do him good to swing him a couple of times. Then 
harness him as directed in Chapter IV, under "To Harness the Colt." If 
you think he will try to kick the harness off, fasten his fore foot up as 
in Figure 2, lead him about until he is willing to stand quietly, then har- 
ness him and you can stand and laugh at him if he undertakes to kick. 
Draw the traces about his legs so that he may become accustomed to 
them. When he no longer notices the harness let his foot down and 
drive him about drawing the lines around his legs and even between his 
hind legs. But if he undertakes to kick set him back with a good sharp 
pull on the lines or rope bridle. You can do this with the rope bridle 
where you could not with the common bit. When you can drive him 
without kicking with the harness on, hitch him. If he has been a pro- 
fessional kicker fasten his fore foot up before you hitch him, and let him 
go on three legs until he is willing to go without trying to kick. He v. ill 
soon give up when he finds that he only has three legs. When he is 
subdued let his foot down, having your rope so that if he should try to 
kick, you can set him back. He will not try it often, if you give him to 
understand that you mean business. If he has not been a professional 
kicker you can straighten him up with the rope bridle alone. Because if 
you keep your eye on him you can tell when he is going to kick, and if 



BALKING. 53 

you. desire, you can with a single pull on your rope set him back on his 
haunches. And when he sees that you are able to take him clear off his 
feet even before he can get ready to kick he will soon give it up. Be 
cool and work as though you had broken a hundred worse kickers than 
him and you will master him in a short time. 

Balking. Perhaps no other fault among horses has baffled so many 
horsemen as balking. No other fault requires more tact in being broken 
up. Very often the driver is to blame for a horse balking. But how- 
ever he has fallen into the habit, we must break him of it before he will 
be a pleasant horse to work. Here, of all places we must control our 
temper if we would be successful. If we cannot control ourselves, 
reasoning beings as we are, how can we expect to control a spoiled 
horse. Also we must be firm. First of all we must get control of the 
horse. Then we must so hitch him that we can compel him to pull 
without doing anything to vex, or make him mad. \ 

If your horse is hitched, and has balked with you, when he has shown 
that he will not go with a little coaxing, unhitch him and swing him 
by the bridle and tail, as explained under, "How to Gain Control of the 
Horse," until he is dizzy, let him stand a little and swing him again. 
This will give him a profound respect for you. Now put your rope 
bridle on him and give him a few good pulls with it, learning him that 
when it tightens on him he must come. When he seems quite willing to 
he<2d the rope bridle hitch him up with a horse that you know will pull 
when you tell him. Loosen both stay chains. Leave his tongue chain 
so that he cannot stretch it without coming in contact with the wagon. 
Unrein him, and fasten the rope bridle to the end of the tongue so that 
he cannot get back against the wagon. Get on and speak to them as 



54 RUNNING OFF. 

though you expected them to go; and as the other horse starts he will 
tighten the traces on the balker which cannot fly back on account of 
the rope bridle, and as the wagon begins to move the tongue will lead 
him forward. Do not let him go fast, but give him to understand that 
he must go just as you like. Let him stop every few rods for awhile; 
-for you are now giving him lessons in starting. If you have a load on be 
careful to not have them loaded so that with a fair pull they cannot 
move it. Sometimes a wagon gets pretty tight and a team cannot start 
it. If your other horse will not hold him draw your rope through the 
ring on the end of the tongue, get on your seat and tighten him up and 
hold him there until he is willing to go. He will not wait long if you 
hold him tight. When he is willing to go, start your other horse and 
and let them move off together. Be firm with him; but do not speak 
angrily to him nor strike him so as to vex him. If you are working him 
single lead him up with the rope bridle so that he will not care to wait 
to be lead often. Give him to understand that you mean business, and 
that you are able to make him work whether he likes it or not, and it 
will not be long until he will go when you tell him. 

Running Off. If you have a horse that has been running away you 
must make him respect your authority, and give him to understand that 
he is subject to go and stop at your bidding. Sv/ing him a few times 
until he is dizzy, then before you hitch him teach him implicit obedience 
to the word "whoa." If he has been badly frightened fasten his fore- 
foot up as in Fig. 2., and when he is subdued, let his foot down tor 
awhile. Then fasten it up again. Use "The Attachment" on your bridle, 
if you do not have this, leave the rope bridle on him. If he seems to be 
afraid of what you are hitching him to, let him examine it, then fasten 



DISOBEDIENCE OF SINGLE LINE LEADERS. 55 

his foot up again and hitch him. Malce him start off slowly and let him 
go on three legs until he seems willing to go quietly. Then let his foot 
down and drive him slowly for awhile. Demand of him implicit obedience, 
and drive him with a firm hand and you can keep control of him. If he 
undertakes to run with you, you will not have much trouble to hold 
him with "The Attachment" or rope bridle. So long as you can, keep 
control of his head with the lines, you can manage him. To gain con- 
trol of his head if he should undertake to run tighten the left line until 
he gives to the left, then throw your weight on the right one you can 
give him a surge in this way that will give you control of him when you 
could not get it in any other way. Unless he is a professional runav/ay you 
will not need to put him through so much preliminary training. But 
put "The Attachment" on him and go ahead; if he jumps set him back 
with the bit and soon he will be all right. 

T)isohedimce of Single Line Leaders. No place does obedience add 
rnore to the pleasure of working a horse than under the single line. But 
if we demand obedience here we can have it even easier than not; for 
it is easier by far to make a horse obey than to work him and not make 
him obey. If your horse is at all contrary under the single line, use 
"The Attachment" on him. Do not be rough, but make him obey you 
when you speak to him. When you tell him to go do not stand and 
repeat the command three or four times; but speak once so that he 
can hear you distinctly and if he does not go immediately, if you have 
no whip, strap him up with the end of the line in a way that he v/ill not 
wait for the line the next time he hears you tell him to go. Horses 
after having been worked in the lead, to the plow, for quite awhile 
sometimes learn that if they walk close to the furrow they will not have 



SHYING. 56 

to pull SO hard. But if they get at this if you have "The Attachment" 
on them you can with a sharp pull bring them back to their places. 
Then watch them closely for awhile and when they begin to crowd in 
on the furrow bring them back in a way that they will not care to have 
repeated. Do not act angrily but give them to understand that you 
mean business, and you will not go very far until they will obey you 
when you say "haw," or "gee." Always demand obedience and you will 
always have it. But if you tell him to do something perhaps half a 
dozen times while you go across the field and do not make him obey 
you, how can you expect obedience. Follow this simple rule and you 
will have no trouble. Never ask your horse to do anytning unless you 
expect him to do it, then see to it that he obeys. 

Shying. Shying is one of the mean habits a horse learns, and a habit 
that it takes longer to break up than some others. If your horse shys 
you should drive him with a bit with which you can easily control him. 
Do not whip him unless after cooly thinking it over you decide that it 
will do him good, and then be careful that you do not whip him because 
you are angry. It is well to let him stop opposite his supposed bugbear and 
give him an opportunity to examine it, and see that it will not hurt him. 
Ride or drive him past it until he does not mind it. The kind of bit you 
have on him will have a good deal to do with his scaring, if he feels that 
you are his master and that he must do as you bid him, he will not mind 
many thmgs that he otherwise would. 

Of course if you are going some place you cannot stop and drive him 
past something several times. But if you give him time to examine 
a few things and are firm with him you will soon see a marked improve- 
ment in him.. You will not be able to overcome the habit in a single 



TO CATCH THE HORSE IN THE FIELD. 



57 



evening but if you are firm with him and will persevere in your efforts 
your work will not be in vain. 

UHiot (yUlowing Themselves to he Caught in the Field, Some men 
have a great deal of trouble in catching their horses in the field. If you 
will visit them a few times when you do not want them, talcing a little 
brand or salt or something they like pretty well, and call them up and 
let them eat this from a bucket in your hand, it will not be long until 
you can get your hands on them. You will be surprised how soon they 




Figure ^ . 
will learn to come to you when they see you in the field. You must 
make them like you, and you can only do this through kindness. A 
httle treat in this way when you do not want them to work will have a 
great influence on them. Never strike them when you turn them loose. 
If your horse is inclined to be vicious, you will perhaps subdue him 
quicker by teaching him to lie down at your bidding than in any other 



58 TO TEACH THE HORSE TO LIE DOWN. 

way. You can do this in the following manner: Fasten his fore foot up, 
put a circingle around him with a ring in it, fasten a strap to his other 
pastern and draw it through the ring on the circingle as in Fig. 3. Lead 
him about until he seems tired out, then you lead him up draw his other 
foot up bringing him down on his knees as in Fig. ■^. Now be careful 
and do not let him turn his head around under him when he lies d"own, 
but sort of draw his head toward you, leaning your v.^eight againt his 
hip trying to give him to understand as best you can what you want him 




Figure A. 
to do. Do not force him down, but it will not be long until he will lie 
down. You can prevent him from rising by keeping his head down. 
When he is quiet Ico^en his legs and pet him, speaking kindly to him 
until he shows by his eye that he is subdued. Then let him up and in 
the same way make him lie down again. If you are firm in a few times 
he will lie down when you command "lie down, sir." When you have 
gained this control over him, you will have no trouble in breaking him 
to anything you like, following the directions for gaining control of 
and educating the horse. 



IF YOU HAVE 

A COLT TO BREAK, 
A KICKING HORSE, • 
A SHYING HORSE. 
A RUN AWAY HORSE. 
OR HORSE THAT IS HARD 
TO MANAGE. 

YOU SHOULD HAVE 

BoOeits' liagy flttacM. 



With this device you can manage a horse 

where you could not with an ordinary bit. 

Address, 

W. N. ROBERTS, 

WlNTERSVILLE, O. 



